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The Black Book

Jonathan Simkhai

Jonathan Simkhai is a New York–born, Los Angeles–based fashion designer and the founder of his eponymous label, SIMKHAI, launched in 2010. With a foundation rooted in buying, merchandising, and hands-on design, his work reflects a thoughtful approach to modern femininity — where clean lines, elevated knitwear, and tactile details come together in pieces that feel both confident and effortless.

His talent was recognized early by the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA). An alumnus of the CFDA Incubator program, Simkhai went on to win the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund in 2015, a defining moment that helped propel the brand onto the global fashion stage.

Today, SIMKHAI has expanded beyond ready-to-wear into accessories and lifestyle, with flagship boutiques in SoHo, New York City, and Los Angeles. Loved by tastemakers and modern women alike, the brand is defined by a balance of sophistication and ease — designed for a wardrobe that moves seamlessly from day to night, and feels as considered as it is wearable.

You once shared that your love of fashion began long before you knew you’d become a designer. What is the earliest moment you remember feeling drawn to clothing, design, or visual identity?

When I was in high school sometimes I would skip school and go shopping with my Mom. I loved choosing outfits for her and styling her in the fitting room.

How did learning about lace and textile production at a young age shape your understanding of beauty and precision? Was there a moment when you realized that this family history wasn’t just part of your past, but something you wanted to carry into your work?

My grandfather owned a lace factory in Iran so textiles and lace are a part of my family history. Also my parents both worked in the jewelry industry and I knew early on that I wanted to continue my family legacy of creating and craftsmanship

Your aesthetic is often described as a balance between architectural structure and romantic femininity. What inspires that tension?

The starting point for my designs is always the wearer – I want people to look and feel their best when they wear Simkhai. The tension comes from the fact that I love to experiment in the grey area, so how can I create a dress that feels modern yet timeless, that is feminine but also structured and figure flattering which comes with tailoring. Why should they have to choose between comfort and style or romance and sensuality?

 

 

When you think of the woman you design for, what is the first feeling you want her to experience when she steps into one of your pieces? How has your vision of her evolved, as you have, as a designer and as a person?

Confidence! Maybe they have a big day or a difficult day ahead and putting on the right outfit can help give them that confidence to go and tackle it. I want her to light up a room and feel her best self whether that’s for a day at the office, time with her family, or a wedding or special occasion.

What was the moment in your career that changed you the most, even if no one else noticed it happening?

Winning the Vogue/CFDA Fashion Fund in 2015 was a huge moment for me personally and the brand and business as a whole. To have that recognition from the industry meant the world to me, and it also came with mentorship and support at a time when my brand was in accelerated growth mode.

When you launched your brand, what was the biggest risk you took? Financially, creatively, emotionally, and what did it teach you?

The biggest risk was just starting the brand in the first place. Simkhai has been self-funded since the beginning, and especially in the early days, there was a lot to manage between the creative design side and the business side. It taught me to build a team that rounds out your skillset –  operations, finance, etc., are just as important as the designers.

What does it feel like, internally, when something inspires you? How do you recognize the moment an idea becomes a design?

It feels like waking up in the middle of the night with an idea and I can’t sleep until I’ve written it down. If I can’t stop thinking about something I know I am onto an exciting idea, and then it’s about translating that idea into a design.

Do you have any creative rituals? Small, grounding habits that help you begin a new collection?

I love to travel, and often get inspired on work trips or family vacations. I am also obsessed with vintage stores and flea markets and love finding unique pieces. I have a huge collection of vintage leather and suede pieces.

Describe your perfect 48hrs in New York City.

When I arrive, I head straight to my favorite gym, S10, and then to Remedy Place to help with the jet lag. Then I go to my SoHo store to see the newest collections, and meet some of our customers to find out what they are gravitating towards, what’s selling, etc. I love seeing my customers interacting with the products in person. I still have several friends and family who live in the city, and I always make time to see them. Indochine and Raoul’s are still two of my favorite restaurants. After dinner with my friends, we’ll go for drinks and dancing at Chez Margaux. NYC has such a spirit and energy to it that’s infectious and inspires me.

When you imagine the long arc of your work, what do you hope remains long after you’re gone?

The clothes! I hope that they are in people’s closets being worn, cherished, and passed on to new generations. I hope that years from now women will still put on a Simkhai dress and feel their best self or look back on a fond memory that Simkhai was  a part of in their life.

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