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The Black Book

Mason Barnes is a professional big wave surfer from Wilmington, North Carolina. Known for his fearless approach to giant waves, Mason has spent years honing his craft in some of the world’s most challenging surf spots, including Nazaré in Portugal and Jaws in Hawaii. His powerful style and dedication to riding the biggest swells have earned him multiple wins and accolades at some of the world’s most prestigious big wave competitions.

Growing up in Wilmington, North Carolina where the biggest wave is barely a foot tall, what fueled your imagination and desire to chase the biggest waves on earth?

Growing up in North Carolina is why I initially fell in love with the sport and the ocean, but that feeling I had when I rode my first big wave was a feeling that I have never felt before. Chasing that emotion over and over again is an addiction that leads me to always chasing a bigger and better wave.

You’ve shared your love for big waves was born on the North Shore of Oahu. Can you share a vivid memory from those early family trips that crystallized your passion for big wave surfing?

My early trips to Hawaii helped shape who I am today. I learned how to show respect to people, the land, and the ocean unlike anywhere else. That level of respect carries with me everywhere I go and to everyone I meet.

Tell us about Garrett McNamara, one of the biggest names in big wave surfing and how he introduced you to this world? How did that mentorship shape your approach to both life and surfing?

Garret has helped pave the way for all big wave surfers, but especially for me. He introduced me to the sport when he took me out for a session at a very young age on the North Shore of Oahu. It was my first time seeing waves that size, and he put me where there was no turning back. It’s because of that day that I am where I am today. There was a click and star in my eye that day that changed my life. I was meant to ride big waves and nothing was going to stop me from chasing that dream. It’s not a sport that you can just go and do, you need guidance with equipment, and with where and how to ride these waves safely, and I’m forever grateful to have had the best teach me the way.

 

 

Every surfer has a turning point that changes everything for their career. What was the turning point for you?

A turning point for me came in October 2020, when Garrett towed me into a wave on what’s still considered the biggest day ever surfed in Nazaré. That wave put my name on the map and showcased to the world that I am just as capable as everyone else to push the sport to the next level.

After the 126.5-foot wave you rode during Epsilon Swell at Nazaré, how did you feel? Did it confirm something you always knew, or did it push you to redefine what was possible for yourself?

My wave in October 2020 change my life forever. It was a moment I feel like I had been working for for my entire life. It felt as if it was that breakthrough moment that all athletes have in their careers. After I rode that wave and before I even saw an image, I broke down in tears for over 30 minutes; I could not stop the emotions from pouring out. I didn’t know why it was happening, but it was a relief and feeling of gratitude that I have never felt before. That wave opened the floodgates for me mentally, as an athlete, and soon after that, I was riding groundbreaking waves back to back to back.

You’ve shared that fear keeps you sharp and calculated. In those moments of pure adrenaline and uncertainty, what is your inner dialogue like? How do you train your mind and body to remain calm in life-threatening situations?

Fear is a healthy emotion; without it, we would make careless mistakes. All my training for these days goes in before the day actually comes, and on those historical days and moments, there is not a thought or emotion in my mind. I almost black out and don’t remember a single thing. I train a lot under stressful environments outside of the water, teaching myself to handle stress at high levels and to be able to focus in the moment and channel those emotions, so when it’s time to perform, they don’t overpower what I need to do and I can be in the present moment.

You have collaborated with brands like LOEWE and Breitling, which is unique in the surf world. How do fashion and personal style play into your identity as a surfer and storyteller?

People don’t really know this about me, but I have always loved the world of fashion. At a young age, I made custom leather jackets and sold them as a side hustle. From that moment in time, I’ve always wanted to help bridge the gap between the fashion and the surf world. I worked towards it for years and LOEWE was the first to give me the opportunity. I’m forever grateful for Johnathan Anderson and his team for bringing me under their arms, and I’m forever grateful that I get to work with brands like LOEWE that genuinely express who I am as a person outside of the water.

 

With 20 years in the water and no plans of stopping, what’s next for you? What dreams keep you up at night?

I feel like, from a career standpoint, I am just getting started. I want to break the current world record for the largest wave ever surfed, and then break it again. I want to set an example as a person and as an athlete so that the next generation can spread good in this world and push each other to be the best versions of themselves.

Can you share a moment when you almost walked away, and what pulled you back in?

A moment when I almost walked away was after an almost near-death experience. It was the worst wipeout of my entire life. I was knocked unconscious and picked up by Will Skudin. Everything in my head and my team’s heads told us to stop, but moments after that wipeout was when I rode that career-changing wave in Nazaré. The universe, at that moment, was testing me, but the strength that the world had given me to keep pushing on resulted in that wave that changed my life forever. Just when you think it’s over, trust the process because what might be the greatest moment of your entire life could be seconds around the corner.

Give us a rundown of your perfect 24hrs in NYC.

The city, to me, is a better place now that I found somewhere that makes me feel at home: The Mercer. A majority of my day are spent around the hotel when I am in town: morning coffee with my friends in The Lobby, lunch outside on the corner, walking the streets of SoHo, dinner with a good group of friends in the hotel restaurant, and an early night’s sleep is a perfect day for me in the city. I’m a creature of habit, and it’s safe to say The Mercer is a major part of all habits when in NYC.

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